The maintenance and care of your jewellery is directly tied to the metallurgical properties and purity of the metals used. Understanding the characteristics of different alloys ensures their lasting beauty.
Higher gold karats, such as 18K and above, offer superior chemical stability and resistance to tarnish, whilst lower karat golds 14K and below and sterling silver are mechanically harder but more vulnerable to external corrosives like chlorine, which can lead to tarnish and potential stress corrosion cracking.
For higher karat metals like 18K gold or platinum, the focus is on avoiding physical impacts that create marks and deformation. For lower carat gold and sterling silver, the priority shifts to shielding the surface from reactive chemicals that cause discolouration.
For gemstones set in jewellery, we recommend also referring to our The Essential Guide to Gemstone Hardness and Care . It's best to use the gentler cleaning or storing method outlined for your particular combination of gemstone and metal.
The Fine Jewellery Standard
18 Karat Gold
18K gold, representing 75% gold content, is widely recognised as the international standard for fine jewellery due to its exceptional balance of purity and strength.
Whilst pure gold is too soft for general wear, 18K alloys are precisely formulated for durability, enabling them to resist everyday scratching and deformation. 18K alloys can achieve high strength and can be further strengthened by age hardening as a final processing step to increase resistance to dents, scratches and general wear and tear.
Platinum
Platinum stands apart as a superior jewellery metal, valued for its unique performance characteristics. It's typically alloyed to a 950 fineness standard (95% pure) and is renowned for its excellent corrosion and oxidation resistance, meaning it doesn't tarnish.
Platinum is exceptionally dense, contributing substantial weight and a luxurious feel in hand. Its white appearance has cool undertones. Mechanically, it's highly resistant to wear and maintains surface embellishments such as engraving and milgrain due to its density.
This combination of chemical stability, density and strength makes platinum eminently suitable for settings, ensuring diamonds and other gemstones are held securely for generations.
Platinum's finish may slowly dull to a soft, pleasing patina (a soft matte look) over time. If you prefer your platinum jewellery to be shinier, a high polish is easily achieved through regular polishing procedures.
Complete Care Guide by Metal Type
| Karat/Fineness (Purity) | Care & Cleaning Methods | Storage Recommendations |
|---|---|---|
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Platinum 950 Fineness (95% Pure). White with cool undertones. Very dense and substantial in weight. |
Platinum is highly resistant to wear and possesses excellent corrosion and oxidation resistance, meaning it doesn't tarnish. Cleaning: Suitable for ultrasonic or steam cleaning. Mild soap and warm water can be used as an alternative. Polishing: Although platinum dulls slowly to a patina finish (a soft matte look) over time, a fine, high polish is readily achieved by following regular polishing procedures and finishing sequences. Protection: Platinum is relatively resistant to chlorine; however, it is recommended to remove prior to swimming. Take off platinum jewellery before using harsh household cleaners or chemicals. |
Because platinum doesn't tarnish, normal jewellery storage is sufficient. Store pieces separately to protect the surface finish from rubbing against other jewellery, preserving the patina finish. |
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18K Yellow Gold, Solid 750 Fineness (75% Gold). Rich yellow colour. |
18K gold exhibits high corrosion resistance. Although it shows scratches, it polishes as worn. Cleaning: Clean with a soft toothbrush and lukewarm, soapy water. Rinse with clean water and wipe with a soft cloth to dry. Polishing: For daily worn jewellery, professional polishing is recommended every 6 to 12 months. Protection: Avoid wearing jewellery in chlorinated swimming pools or around domestic cleaning fluids. Apply cosmetics and perfumes before putting your jewellery on. |
Normal jewellery storage is generally sufficient due to 18K gold's inherent high corrosion resistance. Store pieces separately from any jewellery with gemstones to avoid scratching. |
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18 Karat White Gold 750 Fineness (75% Gold). 18K white gold typically has a yellow undertone and is commonly rhodium plated to create a bright white finish. |
Rhodium-plated white gold creates a hard and tarnish-resistant coating. This layer will eventually wear away, at which time it can be replated. Cleaning: Mild soap and warm water is recommended to preserve rhodium plating. Polishing: For daily worn jewellery, professional replating and polishing is recommended every 1 to 2 years. Protection: Avoid wearing jewellery in chlorinated swimming pools or around domestic cleaning fluids. Apply cosmetics and perfumes before putting your jewellery on. |
Keep pieces in individual soft pouches or separate lined compartments to prevent scratches and preserve the rhodium plating. Avoid storing in humid environments like bathrooms, as moisture can affect the finish over time. |
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14 Karat Gold 58.5% Gold Content. Yellow colour for 14K yellow gold. 14K white gold typically has a yellow undertone and is commonly rhodium plated to create a bright white finish. |
Slightly more susceptible to tarnishing than higher karat counterparts. Shows scratches but polishes as worn. Cleaning: Clean with a soft toothbrush and lukewarm, soapy water. Rinse with clean water and wipe with a soft cloth to dry. For rhodium-plated pieces, particularly gentle cleaning with mild soap and warm water is recommend. Polishing: For daily worn jewellery, professional polishing is recommended every 6 to 12 months. For rhodium-plated pieces, we recommend replating every 1 to 2 years. Protection: Avoid wearing jewellery in chlorinated swimming pools or around domestic cleaning fluids. Apply cosmetics and perfumes before putting your jewellery on. |
Due to the risk of tarnishing and stress corrosion cracking, avoid extreme storage conditions. Store pieces separately from any jewellery with gemstones to avoid scratching. For rhodium-plated pieces, avoid storing in humid environments like bathrooms, as moisture can affect the finish over time. |
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10 Karat Gold and Below 41% Gold Content and below. 10K yellow gold or below typically has a pale yellow colour. 10K white gold typically has a pale yellow undertone and is commonly rhodium plated to create a bright white finish. |
Very susceptible to tarnishing and discolouration due to silver and copper sulfides. Cleaning: Clean with a soft toothbrush and lukewarm, soapy water. Rinse with clean water and wipe with a soft cloth to dry. For rhodium-plated pieces, particularly gentle cleaning with mild soap and warm water is recommend. Polishing: For daily worn jewellery, professional polishing is recommended every 6 to 12 months. For rhodium-plated pieces, we recommend replating every 1 to 2 years. Protection: Items must not be worn in chlorinated swimming pools or exposed to domestic cleaning fluids. Apply cosmetics and perfumes before putting your jewellery on. |
Store in conditions that minimise exposure to sulfides is recommended to prevent tarnishing. Anti-tarnish pouches or strips can be useful in slowing down tarnishing, particularly in humid environments. Store pieces separately from any jewellery with gemstones to avoid scratching. For rhodium-plated pieces, avoid storing in humid environments like bathrooms, as moisture can affect the finish over time. |
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Sterling Silver 925 Fineness (92.5% silver, 7.5% copper). Silvery-white with a slight pink undertone. |
Sterling silver is extremely susceptible to tarnishing due to reactions with sulfur compounds found in the air. Tarnishing creates a dark patina. Cleaning: Clean with a soft toothbrush and lukewarm, soapy water. Rinse with clean water and wipe with a soft cloth to dry. Polishing: Use a silver polishing cloth for light tarnish. For heavier tarnish, use a specialized silver cleaning solution, rinse thoroughly, and dry completely with a soft cloth. Professional polishing is recommended every 6 to 12 months for daily wear. Protection: Items must not be worn in chlorinated swimming pools or exposed to domestic cleaning fluids. Apply cosmetics and perfumes before putting your jewellery on. |
Store in anti-tarnish pouches or airtight containers with anti-tarnish strips to minimize exposure to air and moisture. Keep pieces separately to prevent scratching, and store in a cool, dry place away from humidity and direct sunlight. |
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Gold Plated and Vermeil Gold plating features a 0.0005mm layer of gold on a base metal such as brass. Vermeil plating features a 0.0025mm layer of gold on sterling silver as the base metal. Gold plated and vermeil pieces have an appearance that matches the karat of the plating, while the finish depends on the thickness and quality of the gold layer. |
The coating is a very thin adherent metal deposit. These pieces are highly susceptible to wear, fading, and tarnishing as the thin gold layer can rub off over time, exposing the base metal underneath. Cleaning: Clean gently with a soft, damp cloth and mild soap if necessary, then pat dry immediately with a soft cloth. Avoid harsh scrubbing, abrasive materials, or prolonged soaking, as these can wear away the gold plating. Polishing: Avoid frequent polishing, as it can remove the thin gold layer and shorten the jewellery's lifespan. If replating is needed due to visible wear or discoloration, consult a professional jeweller for assessment and refinishing. Protection: Remove jewellery before swimming, showering, exercising, or applying lotions and perfumes, as moisture and chemicals rapidly degrade the gold plating. Avoid contact with household cleaners, chlorine, and salt water, which can cause the plating to corrode or peel. |
Store in anti-tarnish pouches or airtight containers with anti-tarnish strips to minimize exposure to air and moisture. Keep pieces separately to prevent scratching, and store in a cool, dry place away from humidity and direct sunlight. |
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